This first description was written by a LT in the 899th on how to make an American AT weapon. His is a very nice looking one and (to be honest) you really don't need it to look as perfect as his does. You can leave the barrel exposed and simply have an "explosive head" on the end made out of foam (what a couple of us did) and shaped like a charge. This is the smallest bazooka that you can make for the Allies and it is called a PIAT. The trick is to make it look similar to this and make it look like a "war head rocket" end. Other than that, it is as his description implies. Any questions, please PM me.
Oh yeah, forgot to mention that the total length on this one only has to be 36 inches.
Narration by Vern "P8ntslinger" Middlebrook
Here is a list of some of the tools you will need:
Drill & bits
Dermal & bits
Screwdrivers
Grinder
File
heat gun
sand paper
you will also need some 10 round tubes and a 1/2" PVC elbow to make your tube adapter out of.
(just for your info if you did not know the difference. A reducer COUPLING is one that glues on the outside of pipe to reduce from one
size to another. While a reducer BUSHING glues inside a coupling or elbow to reduce it down to a smaller size.)
Lets get started with cutting the ridges out of a couple of your fittings. If you look down inside of your 2" to 3" coupling you
will see a raised ridge, you will need to deremal this ridge out so that you 2" pipe can slide all the way through it. (#1 in picture 1)
Next you will need to Deremal the ridge out of your 2" to 1" reducer bushing so that you 1" PVC pipe will be able to slid all the way
through it. Then just stick your 1" pipe into your bushing so that you will have something to hold onto, while you grind off the outside
ridge on this bushing as well.
******(do not glue anything at this time)****** (The ridge you need to grind off the outside is #2 in picture 1)
The reason you will need to grind this ridge off is because you will be gluing it into your 2" COUPLING backwards.Once you get it
ground off and are sure it will fit go ahead and glue your 2" to 1" bushing into your 2" coupling. You will notice that it will not go all the
way in bit that it leaves a little sticking out of the 2" coupling, grind off the excess.
Ok now that we have those pieces ready, lets cut our pipes down.
First cut your 1" PVC off at 30" ( stem and body of Bomb) ,now cut your 2" PVC off at 21 3/8" (Main body of PIAT) You will need to cut
two pieces of 3" PVC, the first at 13 1/4" (For the bomb tray) and the second at 12" to cut up for other parts. Now rip your 12" piece of
3" PVC in half, you should now have two 12" pieces of PVC that looks like #4 in picture 2 (I used a table saw to rip these parts but, you could with a jig saw). Set one piece aside and heat the other one up until it is soft then press it around the outside of your 13" piece of
3" PVC, that will make it a little bigger than the one you set aside. Now after it cools you will need to rip two 1/2" wide by 12" long strips
out of it, they should look like #1 in picture 2. Now rip the rest of it down to two 1 1/4" by 12 " strips. You will need these strips later as shims to center your marker. (that is what #2 and #3 in picture 2 is.)
The stock area. lets get started there.
Clean about 2" of your 2" PVC pipe that you have cut off to 21 3/8". Now clean on the inside of your 1 1/4" to 2" reducer coupling (#2 in picture 4 ), all you need to clean is the 2" side of this coupling. Now put a little glue on your 2" pipe were you cleaned it and in the 2" side of your 1 1/4" to 2" reducer bushing and slide them together. Now a 9 oz tank stock (#1 in picture 4) should slide over the outside of the small end of your reducer coupling. You may even have to tap it on, I did not have to glue mine on, but you may want to.
Now on to the other end of your 2" PVC main tube.
If you look close at picture 5 you will be able to see how I attached the 3" Bomb tray, 2" main body, and 1" bomb stem.
In the picture with numbers here is what each number is;
#1 is the 1" bomb tube.
#2 is the bomb fins.
#3 is the 1" to 2" reducer bushing that you cut the inside lip out of and glued into your 2" coupling.
#4 is the 2" coupling.
#5 is the 2" to 3" reducer coupling.
Ok all we will be working with now is the 2" PVC main body, your 2" to 3" reducer coupling, & your 2" coupling.
(that you have already glued your 2" to 1" bushing into backwards and ground off to look like #3 in picture 5 (I will call this your bomb adapter)
Now clean the insides of your 2" to 3" reducer coupling that you cut the lip out of. (this is your bomb tray adapter) Clean also the 2" side of your 2" coupling (Bomb adapter) and about 4" of the end of your 2" PVC pipe main body.
Now that everything is clean and ready to go together you will need to move kind of quickly so get everything together and ready before
you start applying glue. Apply glue to about 3" of the outside of your 2" PVC main body.
Now take your Bomb adapter (2" coupling) and apply glue to the inside of the 2" side. Now take your Bomb tray adapter (2" to 3"
reducer coupling) and apply glue to the 2" side and slide it down over your 2" PVC main body until about 1 1/2" of the 2" PVC main body is sticking out of the 3" side. Now grab your bomb adapter and slide it down on the 2" PVC pipe that is sticking out of the 3" side. You may need to push down hard to make it slide on all the way and it may make the bomb tray adapter move down a little farther as well,
this is OK.
Next we will be working on the bomb tray part of our PIATs.
Picture 3 is numbered as;
#1, Is the toilet float that we will make our bomb out of later.
#2, Is the three screws that attach the float to the bomb tray.
#3 Is the Bomb tray end support ring.(we will make these now)
#4, Is the bomb tray bead. (we made these the already)
#5, Is your 2" to 3" adapter coupling.
Now to make your ring( #3) you will need to find your 3" coupling. Now that you have your 3" coupling you need to cut off a 3/4" ring
from it and this 3/4" ring is what you need, deburr it and save it.
Now for the main body of the bomb tray.
Take your 3" PVC pipe that you cut off to 13 1/4". You will need to draw a straight line from one end to the other to get started.
Now measure over from that line and put another line parallel to the first one. Now glue your 3/4" support ring on the front of your
pipe. (it should look like the picture)
Now you can glue your 3" bomb tray into your 2" to 3" coupling. If you did not glue you tank stock on, you will not have to worry about getting the 4 1/2" area between the parallel lines at the top. If you did glue your stock on make sure the 4 1/2" area is up. Because this is
the area that you will cut out with your dremmel.
Now that you have cut out the 4 1/2" area Between the two parallel lines deburr it and get your strips you cut before. Lay them along the side of your bomb tray and mark them, so you can cut them down to fit in the area of #4 in the picture.
Now glue them to the side of the bomb tray and let dry. Once it is dry use you dremmal to round them off like in the picture. Now your bomb tray is finished and it should start to look like a PIAT.
Now we will work on the PIAT Bomb.
If you look at picture 3 again you will notice these;
#1- Is the Toilet float.
#2- Screw
#3- Bomb tray ring
Then in picture 5 you will Find;
#1- is Bomb stem (1" PVC cut to 24" long)
#2- Bomb fins Cut out of flat plastic about 1/8" thick. They will need to be about 3" long By 3/4" tall.
#3- is the 1" to 2" bushing.
#4- is your 2" coupling
#5- is the 2" to 3" coupling & the outside of the bomb tray.
We will start off with your toilet float. You will need to cut two holes in it so that it will slide over you 1" PVC pipe. Make sure you
don't get any hurry. Cut the hole small and slowly make it larger as you need until you can just force it over the 1" PVC pipe.
Now take the 1" PVC pipe and apply glue to about 3" of one end and force it into your 1" to 2" bushing ( #3), you will want to push it
in about 4". Now slide your toilet float onto your Bomb stem (1" PVC pipe), until it hits the Bomb tray ring (#3). I then applied glue to all areas of the toilet float that is in contact with PVC. Then I drilled through the end bomb tray ring and into the float on each side. Then I put one screw in each side. You will now notice that you have a lot of 1" PVC pipe sticking out of your float, You will need to cut it off, where you only have about 1 1/2" of pipe sticking out of your float.
To attach the fins just apply a little glue to each fin and hold it in place until the glue sets enough to hold them in place. Then you can apply more glue if you want. Now you should have your bomb made and are almost finished with your PIAT.
Next we will talk about how to mount your marker into the PIAT.
I will go through how I mounted my marker into the PIAT. You may have to do it a little different but it will be basically the same.
If you look at picture 6 you should get the idea of how to mount a marker into the PIAT.
First you will need to measure forward from the back of the stock 15 3/4" and put a mark on the bottom of your PIAT. This is where
the back of your marker trigger grip should be.
Now measure your markers main body. Mine was about 1" by about 7", with the back of my trigger grip being forward about 1" from the back. So I marked two parallel lines 1" apart along the bottom of my PIAT. Then I measured back 1" from my 15 3/4" mark 1" and drawed
a line. Then I measured forward from that line 7" and drawed another line. this gave me my rough marker hole. I then cut it out to see if my marker would fit noting where my marker feed tube (#2 in picture 7) hit at in the top of the tubing. I then cut that area out so that the feed neck would fit through. Now you will notice in picture 7 some small holes (#1), they are for wire ties, so that it will hold your marker
solidly in the PIAT. You will also notice in picture 6 the shims that I have glued into the top of my PIAT. They are to center my marker in
the tube. You will need to play with it a little until you figure out just how much you will have to shim your marker to get your barrel to
be center of your bomb tube.
Then to screw your barrel into your marker you will need some dowel rod and black tape. Wrap some black tape around the dowel rod until it fits real tight into the end of your barrel and then slid it into the bomb tube and into your maker body and then turn the dowel until your barrel is tight. Now paint it all and you are finished with your PIAT.
All that is left is to make a 10 round tube adapter.
I have changed mine up a little from picture 9. What I did was buy a 1/2" PVC coupling (#1) and heat it up until it was soft then I forced it into
my marker feed neck. Then pulled it out and forced in the other end of the coupling. This will make the coupling just a little smaller. Then while that end was still in the feed neck I forced in the open end of a 10 round tube (#2) and let it all cool until it hardened.
And when done it should look like picture 8. I added a 5 round shotgun shell holder to mine. (#1)
Thanks to George "Snipes" Miller of Her Majestys Commonwealth Forces, for the plans and pictures.
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This second one is actually a German model one, but the reason I went to it was to show you another view on how to situated the marker. You could easily take this way and turn it into a "regular zook" for the Allies. The "regular zooks" are basically just a simple 2" pipe that is 54 inches long or 60 inches long (do the smaller one... trust me). Situate your marker so your barrel stops within an inch or two INSIDE the PVC pipe and you will be set. Using foam around the barrel will keep it in the middle and make it easier to fire.
Materials need for my style design
Paintball marker
2" x 36" ABS (black) pipe
2" threaded male and 2" threaded female ABS fittings
2" to 4" ABS coupling
Small section of 4" ABS about 3.5-4" long
Small section of 2" ABS about 2" long
4" PVC end cap (the ABS end caps are flat, I don't like them)
For the 10 round tube I use 3/4" PVC and add a stock class marker feed tube cap
First step:
Assemble marker with barrel and measure overall length. Measure distance from end of barrel to the pistol grip or expansion chamber depending on the marker. Measure the distance to the back end of the pistol grip itself.
Second step:
Assemble warhead. Glue the 2" female fitting to one end of the 2" x 36" tube. Your warhead will screw into this fitting allowing you to remove the warhead and take the barrel off your Faust for cleaning.
Dry fit the small section of 2" ABS x 2" long into the 2" male threaded fitting.
Then take and dry fit the 2" ABS into the 2" to 4" coupling. These need to fit flush. Adjust the length of the 2" ABS section between the male fitting and the 2" to 4" coupling. Once you have a good fit you can glue these parts.
Dry fit the small section of 4" ABS x 3.5" long into the 2" x 4" coupling then place the end cap on. These also need to fit flush. Adjust the length of the 4" ABS section between the 2" to 4" coupling and the end cap. Once you have a good fit you can glue the 4" section into the coupling. DO NOT GLUE THE END CAP ON YET.
Third step:
Take your assembled tube and warhead mark a center line down the top and bottom of the tube only. Mark this line until you come to the end of your marker and barrel's overall length. This is an important step in getting your marker in the tube straight. Measure the width of your marker. You are going to cut a slot out of the top of your marker long enough and wide enough to drop your marker in with the barrel removed.
I use a fabric tape measure so it will wrap around the tubes easily. From your center line measure out 1/2 the width of your marker on both sides. I start my slot cut at the point at which the barrel and the marker body will meet. For mine this was right behind the 2" male threaded fitting. Yours may vary. You end your slot at the end of your marker. Add extra room if you marker cocks from the rear, like most spyders. Widen the end of the slot to allow for adjusting the velocity and cocking the marker.
Fourth step:
Mark the locations of your marker's expansion chamber or foregrip on the bottom of the tube along the center line. Then mark the spot for your pistol grip. You are going to cut holes in the bottom to allow the marker to drop through the slot in the top and have your pistol grip, foregrip or expansion chamber go through the holes in the bottom. If your pistol grip comes off you can trace around it for a better cut.
Start these cuts and try inserting your marker into the bottom slots. Try, cut, try again. Just take your time and get a good level fit.
The Automag rail comes off and I mounted it direct to the tube. Made it a bit easier. Then cut a slot for the pistol grip to be inserted from the bottom.
Fifth step:
This is where you make the extra cuts in the tube needed to fit your feedneck (if not vertical or like on a 98 custom). Make sure you can cock the marker and adjust the velocity. Make the needed cuts a little at a time and only remove what is needed from the tube.
Sixth step:
Insert the marker and zip tie into place by drilling small holes in the tube near the bottom and running the zip tie over the marker and cinching it tight against the bottom of the tube. This is what will keep your marker sturdy in the tube.
Seventh step:
Now you are ready to add the end cap and drill a hole for your barrel to fit through. It should fit flush or extend from the end cap. If it does not, then do not sue the end cap or drill a big hole. Don't want your barrel slipping and your shots hitting the inside lip of the hole. Makes a nice spray instead of the balls leaving the end cap.
Been there, done that. Barrel tagged a tank due to this at Panzer Attack, then fixed the problem.
Step Eight:
Your over all length should be 42" or more. I cut the excess off the opposite end of the tube.
Step Nine:
Make a 10 round capacity hopper tube from the 3/4" PVC and add it to your feedneck. You may need to add an elbow or two to shape the 10 round hopper the way you want it. I add a stock class marker's feed tube cap. The ones with the petals that allow a 10 round tube to fill them.
Step Ten:
Remove marker. Paint tube and warhead. Replace marker.
Step Eleven:
Practice on hitting 2" x 2", 5" x 5", 7" x 7" and 12" x 12" (bunker sized - I think) targets within 1-3 shots. You will seldom get more chances than that. Practice reloading this thing in a hurry. A skill all tank hunters need.
Step Twelve:
Kill tanks at D-Day.
Note: I hope this points some of you would be tank killers in the right direction. Each marker is a bit different. I have made these from Stingrays, Tippmans, Spyders and Automags. My way is not THE way just A way. I trash about one tube for each new marker I try to fit in a tube. So if you mess up just learn from it and try again. I will try to help any player wanting to make an AT weapon. Feel free to ask for advise or assistance.
[img]http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b183/zeke615/FinishedFaust.jpg[/img
]
REMEMBER... THIS SECOND STYLE IS A GERMAN DESIGN! YOU CANNOT USE IT FOR THE ALLIED TEAMS! IT IS JUST HERE TO LET YOU SEE ANOTHER WAY TO PUT YOUR MARKER INTO THE PVC PIPING!
If you have any questions, just be sure to PM me and I will do my best to respond quickly as possible. And sorry about the length... it was just what I had to give you guys an idea on what to work with.
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I'm also the teams Captain, so any info please forward to me. Thanks.